Well, so much for keeping up to
date with the blog posts! A combination of erratic internet connections, a lot
of ground covered, and being at sea for a number of days has keep us from
updating our progress here.
Firstly, Colombia…
Dispel any thoughts of dirt highways – Colombia has finally
created a booming tourist industry and is producing the infrastructure to match
it. Gone are the days of Colombia only being known for its civil war and drug
trade. The friendliness and hospitality of locals is moving, as they are
desperate to share their country in a positive light. FARC rebels still make
many areas of Colombia dangerous, but tourist spots are as safe as anywhere in
South America. There is a strong army and police presence in this country,
which makes you feel both safe as a tourist and ill at ease with these corrupt,
heavily armed youths entrusted with your safety.
The scenes between major tourist spots were fascinating: tribes of bare chested boys patrolling the
village streets; languid locals lounging against crumbling pastel-coloured
houses; tropical and fertile countryside growing coffee, unheard of fruits, and
vegetables; and heavily clad army personnel posted to just about every small
village and highway in between.
We began our Colombian experience in the large city of Cali.
Cali is raw, shameless, streetwise, and uncaring about you until you care about
it. The people are fanatical about salsa, and if this is part of the culture
you want to experience (and of course we did), Cali is the place for it. Salsa
is played everywhere and young and old seem to adore it. Cali does not have the
beautiful town centre and plethora of museums that many South American cities
are blessed with, however it has a sense of reality and disinterest in tourists
which is harder to find in the regions cities.
Apart from the warm welcome we
received by Carlos’ family in Cartago, the highlight of our time in Colombia
was spending time in the most beautiful city in South America – Cartagena de
Indias. It was everything we could have ever hoped for – hot and steamy, white
sand beaches, wonderful Afro-Caribbean culture, beautiful restaurants, leafy
plazas, colonial architecture, and of course amazing live salsa!
There is a strong sense of femininity here, and liberated
women are not afraid to flaunt it. It was common to see “mutton dressed as
lamb”, with fleshy bits spilling over tight jeans and exposed mid-drifts. But
hey, this is Latin America where you can get away with it. I just can’t quite
bring myself to dress as these women do, though I thoroughly admire their
confidence, determination and sexuality. I am learning to cope with a whole new
vocabulary of male endearment, which my conservative NZ upbringing does not
find appealing.
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